Hangar 11 X-15a Rocket Kit

General Assembly Instructions.

Revision 1

Thank you for purchasing a Hangar 11 X-15a rocket kit. 

From the first prototypes, onto retail models many have contributed suggestions and design ideas, My sincerest thanks to all who have helped.  

OK  onto the build....

Abbreviations:  CR = Centering Ring , BT = Body Tube, NC = Nose Cone,  RB = Rail Button,  CG = Center of Gravity

Tools & Supplies needed:

Flat blade screw driver ¼ wide blade

Xacto knife #11 blade or equivalent  or ¼" square file

4"x6" sand paper 180 grit  [ grit is not critical ]

38 mm RMS case and aft closure [ same size as the center hole in the CR. ]

Hint: The longest case you have is best.

A sharp set of scissors

Thin CA glue

Black permanent marker

ABS Cement from a local hardware store  [ ABS plumbing pipe cement ]

Epoxy,  I like 12 minute epoxy.  Use whatever you are proficient working with.

Sandable sealer / filler for fin roots, body wrap joints, tail cone.

#2 Pencil for marking the finished model for decal placement

12" ruler  for measuring the model so you know where to put the marks.

1/16" drill bit and drill

5/32" drill bit

Masking tape

Rubber bands for holding the wraps in place after glue is applied.

MICO BALLONS  or similar for wing root filets.

Loctite thread locker

An abundant quantity of patience and preparation.  It is not a race, take pride in your work,  get it right.

One of my favorite mottos in life is "Preparation = Success "  Take the time to fit the parts, CR's  MMT , etc.  A little bit of preparation will help the build go smoothly.  The result of a smooth build is a stunning model.

Step 1

Inspect the kit for completeness and any transportation damage.  The kits consist of a Nose Cone, Nose Cone Coupler, Tail cone, left and right BT wraps,  pre slotted body tube, shock cord, fins sets [ 6 fins total ] ,Forward Fin Spacers 2 total,   with one 6 x 32 x 4" screw & #6 flat washer &star washer for each fin and spacer, forward CRs [ 2]  , Aft CRs [ 3 ]  , Tails Cone CR [ 1 ] , 2 rail buttons with screws and "T" nuts, universal motor retainers with #6 x 32 x 1 1/4" screws  #6 flat washers & #6 star washers.  [ NO parachute ] [ Decal set is optional ]

Step 2

Square off the round edge in the body tube slots. Use an X-acto knife or a small file. Do this using care to insure the leading edges are even.

OPTIONAL: Air foil the leading edge of the fin sets at this time if desired.  Use the thin CA glue to strengthen the edges of the BT. Apply a small amount of CA to both ends of the BT  and the perimeter of the slots.

NOTE: Let the glue dry completely before proceeding. 

Step 3

"fit" forward and aft CRs in the aft end of the body tube. The CRs should fit a bit to the snug side, but be able to slide up and down easily with light finger pressure.  Sand ALL the CRs as needed to achieve the desired "fit".  The (3) AFT CRs need to be fit for the MMT also  [ 5 pcs total, 2 forward and 3 aft CRs]

Step 4  Tail cone prep

With sand paper rough up tht ID of the tailcone where the H11TCCR meets the side wall of the tail cone. Now wash the tailcone inside and out with soapy water. Dry completely. When dry insert the Tailcone CR into the tailcone, "T"-Nuts flange UP,  use the 1/16" drill bit to spot and pilot drill thru the tailcone. Then drill thru the cone with the 5/32 drill bit. Complete one hole at a time. pilot drill, clearance drill then insert the 6/32 screw till its flush. Proceed one hole at a time until all 4 screws are installed. Glue the Tailcone CR in place.  A modest application of epoxy around the outside edge is all that is needed.

TIP: Use the motor retainer screws to hold it in place until the glue sets. [ Be neat, no glue on the T-nuts or threads.  ]

TIP: Oil or a bit of grease on he screw threads will keep the epoxy from sticking if it runs.

TIP: Hi temp black "crinkle finish paint" applied to the retainer makes for a METAL appearing finish. 

Step 4

Collect the fins and "fit" each fin in the BT slots sliding them back and forth into the notches fore and aft until the fin is seated.  Trim as needed to all the fins can be inserted easily.  Remove the fins and set close by. Do not force the fin thru the BT, phenolic is prone to cracking if stressed to far.

TIP: lightly mark each fin and fin slot with a pencil at the root edge just outside the BT so they are EZ to ID when your ready to perform the final assembly.

                         Picture above is for illustration ONLY, it is NOT an X-15a. 

Step 5  forward fin set and shock cord.

Here is where we "fit"  the fin & CR assemblies together WITHOUT the body TUBE.  Collect the (2) forward CR's , (2) spacers and the 2 forward fins.

(4) 6 x 32 x 4 screws with a lock and flat washer for each screw.  Line up the CR's with the "T" Nuts flange facing the nose cone.  Line up the recovery strap slots radially. Insert the FWD CR with the "T" Nuts  on the  front set of fin tangs [ the long ones ]  now install the (2) spacers into the CR [ NOTE the part needs to be installed with the edge marked "INSIDE EDGE" facing the center of the tube.   then insert the second forward CR [ the one with NO "T" Nuts on the aft set of fin tangs of both the fins and spacers.  OK here goes Insert each of the (4) 6 x 32 screws   thru the rear most CR and hand thread it into the forward CR "T" Nuts.  Now your part should look like the picture below.

The recovery strap  threads thru the slots on BOTH of the forward CRs,   from the NC down thru the outer most slots then back up thru the inner slots.  Once your thru both make a double not so it cannot pull back thru the slot.  Install the strap now then disassemble and reassemble INSIDE the body tube.

Install the aft closure on the 38mm motor case. Now slide the case into the forward CR thru the aft CR.   Insert the forward CR to a position approx. ½ inch in front of the leading edge of the slot.  Using the motor to square it up and hold it in position. Now insert the fins same as in the "fit" operation in step 4.  When all the fins are seated pull up on the motor tube and engage the slots in the CR with the tangs on the fins. GENTLY Please!

Once all the fins are seated while holding "up" on the motor case, slip the aft CR onto the case  and seat it onto the aft fin tangs. Now one at a time install the 6 x 32 x 4 tie screws in the hole next to each fin.  Start it carefully in the "T" - Nut in the forward CR and DO not apply heavy pressure as this will push the "T"- Nut out of the CR.  Start all the screws then snug one at a time then tighten.  NOT TOO TIGHT! Its plywood...... 

NOTE:  Before tightening the 6 x 32 x 4 tie screws slide the fin & CR assembly forward until the fins are flush to the forward edge of the slot. Remove the motor from the CR pushing it forward thru the BT.

COMMENT:  Don't worry, its kinda like a rubics cube to most the first time they try this.  Patience, it will come to you. 

+

Step 6 Aft Fin set

Collect the (3) Aft CRs, aft fins, rudder and the dorsal. Test assemble as in the picture below. Rudder UP / Dorsal Down.

If all fits well dis assemble and then assemble inside the BT.

IMPORTANT: The 3/8"  space from the end of the slot to the end of the BT is fragile at this point.  GENTLY PLEASE.

NOTE: The AFT CR's are doubled up.  The aft most CR extends out 1/8" past the body tube and accepts the tail cone.

Step 7  Installing the wraps

OK here goes,  Most kits do not come with full tube plastic wraps,  Please take your time with these,  they are strong, but not self healing.. if you cut them wrong, a repair can be made  but lets measure twice and cut once OK.  At this point the fins and CR's are installed the tailcone is on and secure.

THERE is a left and a right. The longer face on the nacelle is UP. [ SEE PIC Below longer faces are in the center.]  We start from the back and  work forward.  Mark the nacelle for the rear fin  [ REMEMBER  measure for the length AND position of the slot  at the OFFSET distance from the airframe NOT the FIN ROOT]  As for how to cut the plastic,  I like a dremel with a cut off wheel [ use safety glasses ] A hot knife can work well also but only with proper ventilation.  Move onto the forward fin. Same careful measuring and slotting.  Repeat for the opposite side.  DO NOT trim the front YET, leave it til last.  The wraps are not slotted for the vertical and ventral fins, I scribed a line and trimmed them with scissors.

• The leading edge of the wrap is trimmed flush to the BT AFTER everything is trimmed and glued in place.
• The aft edge of the nacelle part of the wrap is NOT trimmed it covers the aft edge of the fin.
• The aft edge of the wrap is trimmed flush to the aft edge of the BT. [1/8" of the AFT CR extends past the wrap. ]
• Try to keep the seam on top and the bottom of the wrap as small as possible. There is no overlap. Flush or a small gap is best. We will fill the gap before prime and paint.

Once your happy with the fit, recheck the fins for tightness, Wash the wraps with warm soapy water, dry completely then sand the inside lightly. Clean off the sanding dust with a tack cloth,  Apply glue to the airframe and wraps and secure the wraps to the airframe with rubber bands and tape.  Set aside to dry completely before proceeding.  Once dry remove the tape and rubber bands.  Now trim the leading edge of the wrap flush with the BT.

TIP: Use a black permanent marker to color the leading edge of the BT to match the wrap. 

Step 8

Attach the Nose Cone to the Shock Cord.  OK Fliers here is where the flier decides how much nose weight. The nose weight depends on how you build and what motor you intend to use.  The Nose cone attaches to the coupler with ABS cement. I suggest using a bulkhead and eyebolt [ not supplied ] of sufficient size & strength to hold  the nose cone securely at your completed weight.

TIP: Lightly sand the leading edge of the couple and the ID of the NC so the ABS glue  has a good bonding surface.

TIP: A large water hose clamp [ wormscrew type ] will help keep the cone concentric while the glue sets.

TIP:  test and "FIT"   the NC OD with the BT OD with the wraps installed.  A little care here makes for a very smooth transition edge.

TIP: Make a loop in the shock cord to attach the parachute. Position the loop so that when the rocket is held up by the loop the nose cone does not touch the BT.

STEP 9

Fit the motor mount tube into the tailcone CR and then insert the 38mm motor with the aft closure in place.  Use the motor retainer to "set"  the aft motor closure  clear of the tail cone.  Mark the tube so you know how much needs to be left extending out past the end of the aft CR.  Remove the 38mm motor and glue the MMT into the aft CRs. Let dry.  Now glue the tail cone into position. The tail cone fits over the aft CR which we left extending out 1/8" past the BT.  Apply glue to the Tail cone CR  ID also. Tape this flush to the aft end of the BT and let dry.

Step 10

The included Rail buttons are installed as follows. The aft button goes centered between the dorsal and horizontal stabilizer. [ either side ]  and is installed just aft of the forward CR.  So that the "T"- Nut flange inside the rocket holds the CR forward.  The forward RB is installed inline with the AFT RB at the CG of the kit.

TIP: I use the "T" Nut on the inside of the BT with the flange facing out. A drop of loctite helps keep things snug.

Step 11

Attach the motor retainer with the screws supplied. 

Step 11

Look for any "spare parts" If you have any go back and figure out what you missed.

STEP 12

Once you are satisfied with the fit and "as built" I suggest a test flight or 2 before applying a finish paint job.  [ fliers discretion ]

After a successful test flight,  I sand the entire model and apply a light coat of sandable primer. Let dry then inspect for any gaps / areas that need a bit of touch up filler etc.  Apply the touch ups as needed.  Apply 2 coats of primers, and paint.  My personal painting method involves me walking next door to the auto body shop with a hundred dollar bill in my shirt pocket and the prepped model in my hands. The results are usually Excellent. An automotive finish with no paint smell in the shop.

STEP 13

Decal placement

Please use fliers discretion here, I found so many pictures and variations.  Here are a few to give you a few ideas.

[Images courtesy of the NASA History division. ]

Reference information :

NASA wind tunnel model drawing was used as a reference. [ Courtesy of NASA History ]

Comment:

•1-    Yes you can fiberglass the fins if you want to.

•2-    Yes you can apply glue / filler to achieve a filet along the fin roots.

•3-    Yes you can fly it "naked"

•4-    Yes you can order spare parts http://www.hangar11.com/

•5-    Yes a Dual Deployment module is available see http://www.hangar11.com/

A few words on motor selection.

Common sense applies here, USE IT... 

The kits are phenolic [ heavy duty cardboard ] Plastic and plywood.

Disclaimer:

   As we cannot control the storage and use of our products, once sold we cannot assume any responsibility for product storage, transportation or usage. Hangar 11, Inc.  shall not be held responsible for any personal injury or property damage resulting from the handling, storage or use of our product. The buyer assumes all risks and liabilities therefrom and accepts and uses Hangar 11, Inc. products on these conditions. No warranty either expressed or implied is made regarding Hangar 11, Inc. products